Wednesday, February 27, 2008

The Muppets Take Miami

February 20th - 24th, 2008: Miami, FL
Ski week this year found me traveling, although not to Hawaii as has been tradition for the past several years. Instead, I headed east to a very different coast to visit my sister in her new place in Miami. Esther has been living in Miami off and on over the last two years and it was wonderful to finally get to visit her and my Aunt Milda. I think the last time I was in Miami was over ten years ago and considering the University of Miami for colleges.

Esther lives on Miami Beach, which in terms of weather, architecture, culture, and people, feels like a world away from my home in San Francisco. I spent many of my days running and walking around on the boardwalk in South Beach where people watching provided hours of entertainment. Miami Beach is a weird mix of high fashion and barely-there one-piece clubbing outfits, exclusive resorts and run-down, sleazy hotels, skinny tan blonds and weather-beaten longtime locals who look like they have spent a few too many years in the sun. The Latin American culture was pervasive as was that of the South Beach diet. I felt more than a little out of place, to say the least.

It was incredibly fun, however, to explore the culture and the natural environment of the area, especially as it meant that I got to spend several days with my sister in her world- something that we have not had the chance to do in quite some time.

My sister's cute studio apartment in Miami Beach was just a short walk from the flashy shops and restaurants of South Beach but provided a welcome respite from both the chaos outside and the heat.

Esther took the day off from her job at a fashion PR firm to come play with me on Friday. After getting the driving tour of Miami, we ended up at the Fairchild Tropical Botanical Gardens which were absolutely amazing. In addition to having examples of the flora of the Florida region, the Gardens are involved with conservation of plants from tropical areas throughout the world giving us the opportunity to see examples of flora from places like Madagascar.

A beautiful beobab tree waiting for spring to start regrowing its leaves

One of the coolest things about the gardens were the several art installations that were incorporated into the gardens. These included sculptures and art by Botero, Chihuly and Roy Lichtenstien. The pieces of Chuhuly's work that were features were several incredible hand blown glass sculptures, including a beautiful tree made entirely of colorful glass (http://www.chihuly.com/). Roy Lichtenstien (http://www.lichtensteinfoundation.org/), who is perhaps better known for his pop art cartoon-like drawings, had several pieces of sculpture on display that were fun in the way they demonstrated his unique style in three dimensions. What I enjoyed most, however, was the way that the art was woven into the tapestry of the gardens, such as this piece by Lichtenstein shown below. The sculptures seems to be hidden among the trees and ponds as though they themselves were growing there along with the tropical flora.


The sisters posing at the Fairchild Gardens


Later that day, Esther and I took in Sunset across Biscayne Bay from a beach on Key Biscayne. The beach we found also happened to be a favorite with the kite boarders; at one point there had to be at least 20 of them sailing around on the water in front of us. The buildings in the distance are those of Coconut Grove, just south of Miami proper.


Does this even need an explanation? Do people really need to be told not to try to pet the alligators? Apparently so...

Saturday found Esther and I driving west to visit the Everglades National Park. I have to admit that before this trip, I only had a vague sense of what the everglades were and why it is both so difficult and imperative to protect them. Briefly, all of southern Florida was, in its natural state, a wetland watershed where water, flows south from Lake Okeechobee through and underneath almost all of southern Florida until it reaches either the Gulf of Mexico. The park itself only protects about 1/5 of this area- primarily the lower and coastal sections of the watershed. Although the land of southern Florida is quite flat, even small changes in elevation can have a huge effect of the flora and fauna of the area and result in nine or so distinct habitats in the area. These include cypress groves, coastal wetlands, mangrove forests, and sawgrass marshes. With this diversity of habitats comes a diversity of life of both plants and animals living there. The problem, however, is that while the lower sections of the watershed are protected from further development, upstream uses of the water that feed the Everglades threaten the health and further existence of the Everglades as a wetland system. Much of the water from Lake Okeechobee is diverted for agriculture and other human uses, leaving less and less to flow through the Everglades. In addition, increasing agricultural runoff also affects the water quality of the water that does make it through.

Esther and I had an incredible day exploring two different ecosystems in the Everglades. We spent the morning walking out the raised trail at Shark Valley. After getting excited about seeing alligators lounging in the pools of water off the side of the trail, they quickly became a dime a dozen as they seemed to be everywhere! We did spend quite a bit of time birding, however, getting to see several species that I will never see further west.


This great blue heron was just one of the man birds we saw on our hike. Other birds to add to the life list: the endangered woodstork, a great egret, red shouldered hawk, a bald eagle, tons of anhingas, a purple gallinule and a pileated woodpecker.

A strangler tree wraps itself around a cypress tree on the Cypress Bend boardwalk trail

Monday, February 25, 2008

Winter Weekend at Sierra Camp

Presidents Day Weekend, February, 2008: Stanford Sierra Camp Winter Weekend
to get into the back country as we snowshoed up Glen Alpine and climbed partway up While Sierra Camp goes into deep hibernation all winter, it emerges from its slumber for one weekend over Presidents Day to host a Ski Weekend, allowing guests come up to stay at camp and ski the backcountry of Desolation. Welcoming the opportunity to get back up to camp while helping my poor sad bank account at the same time, I joined several former staphers to Hobart, LM, HK, and play with kids for the weekend. With only 35 or so guests, the weekend was remarkably chill, a word not often associated with camp, and I actually got to spend a lot of time relaxing, running around Desolation and spending time with old friends. On one afternoon off, Becca and I took the opportunity to snowshoe up Glen Alpine, climbing the nature trail to Glen Alpine and then climbing part way up Tamarac on the opposite side of the creek above Lily Lake. Most of these photos are scenics from that trip as the light was absolutely incredible during our late afternoon hike....

The view of Cathedral from the nature trail

Looking up Glen Alpine Valley into Desolation

Becca enjoyed the incredible shorts and t-shirts weather as we hiked around the side of Mt Talac



My poor attempts to take artsy photos... but I did really like the patterns in the snow, especially as the shadows highlighted each of the small divots on this slope

Hiking back toward Angora Ridge


The reflections in Fallen Leaf Lake as we hiked back into camp

We did actually do some work over the weekend.... including sledding with the six kids in our group near Baby Beach

Leaving camp after HK... the lake was incredible as always

Ano Nuevo State Reserve

February 14th, 2008: Ano Nuevo State Reserve

A Valentine's Day trip with the sixth graders to see the Elephant seals do their thing at Ano Nuevo State Reserve. It was an incredible day as we drove down highway one to the reserve where we met our tour guide, Susan McConnell, who as it turns out, is a dev bio professor at Stanford. Small small world. During the winter, Ano Nuevo is the largest mainland colony of breeding Northern Elephant seals in the world, which is pretty amazing.

What is perhaps more interesting if the complex social structures that govern the mating season on these beaches. The male seals arrive at Ano Nuevo in early December where they fight it out for dominance and eventually settle into a variety of roles including Alpha males, Beta males, Loser males and Sneaker males. As the females arrive on the beach later in December, the Alpha males group the females into harems and constantly fight to maintain control of this group of females. The Beta males are those who are not quite strong enough to become Alpha males, but have successfully fought for the right to remain on the main beaches. They can often be seen encircling the harems and often trying to mate with the females while the Alpha males are distracted. Loser males are banished to Loser Beach, at some distance from the females.

As the females arrive on the beach, they first give birth to their pups, which can be seen in photos as the small black blobs. The pups will nurse for about a month, after which they will be known as Weaners (best name ever..). After they give birth, the females are almost immediately impregnated by the Alpha male and the whole process starts over again. While effective, i also found the social structures to be really disturbing. The females choose remain in the harem for protection from the males that surround the group and females attempting to reenter the water are often gang raped by the beta males that sit between them in the water. yuk. Males are huge and extremely aggressive, often running over and killing pups and weaners as they try to get to the females. Despite these drawbacks, it was a really cool trip and one that i would definitely recommend.


Susan introduces herself to the group

The beach at Ano Nuevo. In this photo you can see what is probably two harems of females with the Alpha males mixed in and the Beta males around the outside. Thank god we have already taught the kids sex ed as elephant seal sex was prominent activity of the day.

Two bulls picking a fight while a weaner scoots to get out of the way


Many pups and weaners do not survive their first few months of life. Many are crushed by the males, are separated from their mother, or are not able to survive once weaned.

A male showing off on the beach

A beta bull lounges in a pool to help him cool off- perhaps in more ways than one


Best part of the day? Rolling down the sand dunes

Monday, February 4, 2008

Thank You

When she held out her arms, the world itself
wrapped around me & held me tight.

Thank you to all of my wonderful friends and family for making this past weekend and the celebration of my 26th year such a wonderful and special event. I cannot express how grateful I am to have all of you in my life.